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Review: INFORCE WML

By on May 15, 2012 in Flashlights, Guns, Reviews

There was a time when weapon lights were large, heavy, and expensive. Those days are long gone. The INFORCE WML is none of those things and that is what makes it great.

The INFORCE WML mounted on a Daniel Defense M4 FSPM rail

Overview

The INFORCE WML is an LED weapon light that has an output of 125 lumens for 2 hours. It accomplishes this with just 1 CR123 battery. The single battery form factor and fiber composite construction keep the weight of the WML down to an astounding 3 ounces including the battery.

Polymer construction can be hard on some LEDs lights since the polymer doesn’t allow the LED to shed heat. Prolonged overheating can shorten the life of an LED. INFORCE accounted for this by making the bezel out of aluminum wrapped in polymer and adding cooling vents in the polymer that allow the LED to shed heat.

These vents on the polymer covered aluminum bezel help the LED shed heat.

The WML does not require tools for installation. It has one of the best “lock-out” solutions that I have ever seen on a light. The model that I am testing has a multi-functional switch that allows for high, low, and strobe modes to be accessed from the same switch. The WML that I am testing in this review is the white light only model with multifunctional switch (there are also white light/IR and momentary only models).

Quality

The WML seems to be well built. It shrugs off impact and survived being submerged under 12” of water overnight in my test. The polymer feels durable and is thick where it needs to be thick. There are no obvious (to me) weak points on this light.

The LED is clean and well centered in the reflector. The reflector and interior of the lens are also clean and dust free.

The WML is very low profile. The sloped button on the rear sits nicely under the thumb.

Beam Profile

The WML has a fairly wide beam profile. The beam is more intense at the center and has a fairly bright spill beam. The beam is very well balanced for a mix of throw and spill so the hotspot is not as defined as some lights. I find it to be a very useful beam profile.

Single Battery Form Factor

I really like the single battery form factor of the WML. It keeps the light very compact and very light weight. It also keeps this light fairly easy on the wallet since you’ll use less batteries. The WML provides 125 lumens of light for 2 hours on just one battery. Most of my other lights require two batteries to provide similar output and runtime.

Note how thick the rails are on the underside of the WML.

Switch

The WML’s switch is probably the most unique and noticeable feature. The switch is a mostly flat rubber pad on the rear of the light that slopes gently from the top of the light down to the rail. This creates a switch that is very ergonomic to use.

The switch also allows the user to change the light’ output depending on how they interact with it. If the user clicks the switch, the light will come on in high mode and stay on. Click the switch again within 2 seconds to enter low mode. Double clicking the switch while in any mode will activate the strobe feature. For momentary mode, press and hold the switch for a ½ second (or longer) and the light will turn off when you release the switch. The light can also be reprogrammed to come on in low mode first and the strobe can be deactivated.

This lock out bar that prevents access to the switch is an ingenious feature.

Lock Out

The ability to easily lock out a weapon light is important for a number of reasons. It prevents accidental light discharge and prevents depleting batteries by accidentally activating the light during transport. Most lights can be locked out by backing off the bezel, the tailcap, or both. This works, but if the operator attempts to activate his light and finds that it is locked out, there is no quick way to bring the light into action.

The WML features 2 different lock outs. The bezel can be twisted to completely deactivate the light or a small bar can be pivoted up over the switch to block physical access to the switch. This set up is ingenious. The bar physically blocks access to the switch but doesn’t deactivate the light. If the user attempts the activate the light but the switch is blocked by the bar, it can be felt immediately and pivoted out of the way with the user’s thumb in one motion and without breaking the support hand grip on the rifle. I can’t over emphasize the cleverness of this set up.

If you like to mount your lights on the top rail, the WML is ideal.

Mounting Locations

I found that the WML works in a number of mounting location. It worked very well mounted on the support side rail in combination with a vertical grip or handstop. It also works very well on a short rail section mounted on the side of Magpul’s MOE Hand Guards. My favorite place to locate the WML is on the top rail of an extended free float rail. This location allows ambidextrous access, it works no matter which side you are shooting around cover, it minimizes the effect of shadowing caused by the barrel by directing shadows downward where they can’t be seen by the shooter, and it is low profile enough to stay out of the way of your iron sights or optic.

In Use

The main thing that I wanted to test while using the WML is whether or not the switch was too complicated for a weapon light. I found that it was generally easy to learn but there was some learning curve. When you are first learning how to use it, you may find that you accidentally drop into low mode or strobe. This may or may not be a big deal to some users and I found that with time and practice, the light is quite easy to use. Still, I can see why a momentary only option was so highly requested.

The rail clamp is easy to operate and does not require tools.

The lights that I use on most of my rifles weigh about 6.5-7 ounces including the mounts and batteries. The WML weighs only 3 ounces and it is a difference that can be felt on some of the rifles. The extremely light weight on the WML is definitely one of its best attributes.

You have to spend time using the WML to really appreciate the shape of the switch. The shape of the switch makes it very comfortable to use and allows it to be mounted in a number of different locations. I also find that it is very forgiving of how you press it. It can be pressed forward (parallel to the bore) like a typical tail cap switch, in (perpendicular to the bore), or any angle in between. If you can get a digit on the switch, you can press it.

I have already mentioned the lock out bar but it bears repeating. This is an extremely clever solution to preventing accidental light discharges. No other lock out system that I am aware of prevents access to the switch but allows the user to overcome it instantly in the event that the light is locked out when needed.

The switch seems to fall naturally under your thumb no matter where you mount the WML.

Conclusion

It is hard not to like the WML. It is light weight, compact, bright, ergonomic, versatile, and clever. The switch is probably more complicated than I prefer but INFORCE has rectified that with a new momentary only version of the WML. The WML might be the best value in weapon lights right now but that doesn’t mean it is good because it is relatively inexpensive. This is a good weapon light period.

Check out the INFORCE WML on INFORCE-MIL.com.

 

Review: Orion Concepts MOD-1 Holster

By on May 5, 2012 in EDC, Guns, Reviews, Tactical Gear

Sometimes it seems that holsters are such simple things that are designed to do a simple task – carry a handgun. However, the sheer number and variations of holsters on the market should tell you that holsters, especially good holsters, are not such a simple thing after all. There are a lot of holsters on the market that really just aren’t any good. Thankfully, the MOD-1 from Orion Concepts is good – not perfect but really, really good.

The Same but Different

The MOD-1 from Orion Concepts looks new and familiar all at the same time. At first glance it looks like a leather pancake holster until you notice that it molded from kydex. There have been other companies who have adapted proven leather pancake holster designs to kydex but none that were quite like this.

While this looks very much like a typical pancake holster, it is designed to be worn in a different way. The MOD-1 has very large belt “loops” that are designed to allow the wearer to route their belt over the holster, not behind the holster. This results in a holster that wears in a way that I have never really experienced. The grip is drawn into the side of the wearer tighter than any other holster that I have tried and that is a very good thing. The gun rides very close, like an inside the waistband (IWB) holster, but allows the easy access and comfort of an outside the waistband (OWB) holster.

Other Features

The front of the holster (the part that is away from the wearer) is more molded than the back. The back of the holster (the part that is against the user’s body) is very lightly molded. This seems to be part of why this holster is so comfortable. There are no real hotspots or pressure points even though the holster is pressed very tightly against your body. I have always found leather holsters to be more comfortable than kydex. This is the first kydex holster that I have used that challenges that notion.

The MOD-1 has a small but effective sweat guard. It does a good job of keeping you separated from the slide of your handgun and, maybe more importantly, does a good job of preventing your shirt from sticking into the holster (especially important for striker fired pistols with no manual safety). There is also a small projection on the sweat guard that covers the magazine release button. It is molded generously enough to work with the Vickers Magazine Release.

Fit and Finish

As good as this holster is functionally, it is a bit lacking in the area of fit and finish. There are areas where it looks like whatever tool is used to finish the edges slipped and marred the surface of the holster. The edges are finished so that they are smooth but this has created some sharp spots on the bottom of the holster (these edges don’t contact the wearer at all and are easily fixed). Thankfully, the opening of the holster is nicely rounded and lacks sharp edges. The molding is not as crisp as some kydex holsters but the retention is solid. It also seems like there could be a couple more rivets used in the construction and the material around the bolt loops could be left thicker though I had no durability issues during more than 4 months of carry. These issues are purely cosmetic.

In Use

The MOD-1 carries very well. Like every other shooter, I have far more holsters than I have handguns and this is the most comfortable one that I own. It also carries closer and conceals better than any other outside the waistband holster that I own.

It carries very well right on the point of the hip thanks to its curved shape. This is generally where I like to place OWB but many holsters are either too flat or too bulky on the belt for this position to work.

One thing that worried me about the holster when I first received it was I had to skip a belt loop with most of my pants in order to wear the MOD-1. With a typical OWB holster you can route the belt through the holster so that it passes through the holster, a belt loop, and then the holster again. The MOD-1 doesn’t allow that but after months of use, it has been a complete non-issue.

The MOD-1 allows a pretty smooth draw stroke. It holds the gun closer like an IWB holster but higher like an OWB holster. The result is a draw that is easier than an IWB holster but perhaps a tiny bit slower than some OWB holsters that don’t conceal as well. Anytime the grip is held in close to the body, you will sacrifice some speed. This is why competition holsters ride out away fro the body and concealment holsters ride close. You are trading some speed for a holster that conceals very well.

Conclusion

The MOD-1 is a tremendous holster based on function. It rides so comfortably and so close to the body that it really just exceeds anything else that I have tried. There are some fit and finish issues with my example but these issues do not diminish function at all. I suspect that we will be hearing a lot more about Orion Concepts and their MOD-1 holster as they get into the hands of more users. These are excellent holsters.

Check out the MOD-1 with and without weapon lights on Orion-Concepts.com.

 

Review: TOPS Knives .230 Machete

By on April 23, 2012 in Knives, Reviews, Survival

If you have been reading this blog for very long, you know that I find machetes to be extremely versatile tools for the woods. Many people think of them as tools for the jungle only, but I can attest to the fact that they are right at home in many hard wood forests as well. Given my fondness for the machete, I jumped at the chance to review the Machete .230 from TOPS Knives.

Overview

The Machete .230 is ground from 1/8” thick 1095 steel. It is 22.5″ long overall with a 15.75″ blade. It features gray linen micarta handle scales with red spacers and a gray coating on the entire surface of the blade. The blade shape is somewhat unique. It has a double clip point that ends up making it look a bit like a narrow bull nose profile.

It was designed by a collaboration of Joe Flowers and Leo Espinoza. Joe is a noted survival expert and all around great guy. He is largely responsible for my use of machetes in the woods. Leo is a TOPS employee with a number of knife designs under his belt.

Handle

There are a few unique features that stand out about this handle design. The handle is what really makes this machete stand out from the crowd.

The handle is longer than a typical machete handle. It allows the user to choke up for fine work or slide their hand lower for chopping. The edge is ground down very close to the handle (unlike the large gap between handle and edge on most machetes) to enhance the detail cut ability of this machete. The end of the handle has a small protrusion to enhance the leverage during chopping and the ability to use the machete for quick snapping cuts.

The handle also features a unique lanyard system that is unlike anything that I have used before. It has 3 lanyard holes with a length of shock cord woven through them. This creates an ambidextrous lanyard that can be easily slipped over your hand or ignored all together without getting in the way. It worked quite well for me. In my opinion, a lanyard is an important safety feature on a machete, especially if you are working around other people.

Blade

The blade has a short saber grind that allows it to retain basically its full thickness over it’s entire length. At 1/8” thick, it is thicker than most but still manages to feel fairly lively.

The tip is clipped twice in such a way that it ends up looking like a bull nose machete but shorter from edge to spine. This gives it a very strong tip. Other than the double clip point, it is a pretty standard design and it certainly works.

Sheath

Most machetes do not come with a sheath. The ones that do come with a sheath usually come with a sheath that is obviously an afterthought. The Machete .230 sheath is actually pretty decent. The construction is sturdy and it is very functional. It is deep enough to retain the machete and has two fairly large pockets that can be used to carry small survival items or a sharpening stone. It also has strategically placed rivets to prevent the Machete .230 from cutting through the sheath.

Holding low on the handle for chopping.

Choking up for detail work

In Use

I put the Machete .230 through a series of tasks that realistically represent what you might use it for in the woods. The test included chopping both hard woods and springy vegetation, batoning  to split wood, fire prep, notching, limbing, truing, and plenty of general cutting chores. These are all tasks  that you might complete with a small knife and an axe or hatchet but that can be completed (within reason) with a quality machete.

The Machete slashed and chopped very well. It bites deeply in wood when you find its sweet spot and it is light and fast enough to slash springy vegetation very well (springy vegetation is the bread and butter of any machete). I was able to cleanly remove nearly 2” thick branches with a flick of the wrist. The edge was undamaged after hours of chopping on hard wood and a couple of quick passes on a Lansky puck was enough to return a working edge when it did become dull. I used the puck sharpener and finished the edge with a loaded strop in between test sessions.

Notching and fine cuts are a breeze with the Machete .230. The edge is ground to come very close to the handle which enhances the ability to control the edge and use leverage in the cuts that require it. I was able to do very precise notching and whittling. The machete easily minced up jute twine to use as tinder and I was also able to easily create very useful fuzz sticks (feather sticks).

I have always found machetes to be particularly useful for shelter building. They excel at processing the types and sizes of beams that you need to make most basic shelters. I found that the Machete .230 made short work of limbing beams. I could easily just flick the machete down the sides of a typical a-frame shelter beam and the small limbs seem to leap out of the way. It even makes a pretty handy draw knife in a pinch if you need to square a beam.

The coating on my sample is holding up quite well. Driving a blade through a log with a wooden baton tends be pretty tough on blade coatings. It has certainly scuffed but it is holding strong so far.

The handle design worked quite well but I could do without the grooves that are cut in the middle. I don’t notice them when I am choked up on the handle for detail work but, when chopping, they sit right where the machete tends to pivot on my index finger which does cause a bit of discomfort over time. Work gloves solved the issue but just removing the grooves might be a better fix.

The Machete .230 can’t replace an axe or hatchet in extremely cold hard wood climates and it wouldn’t be ideal for skinning a rabbit (it can be done) but in many cases it can replace both all by itself.  If you are anywhere from the desert, to the tropics, to the moderate hard wood forests, the machete will be a versatile tool for you. It excels at processing the wrist size and smaller wood that is most likely what you will be using in those climates.

Conclusion

The Machete .230 is a very, very nice machete that was obviously designed by people who use machetes. The handle allows multiple grips for different types of work, the blade is lively and useful, the materials are excellent, and the sharpened edge and functional sheath mean that this machete comes ready to hit the woods right out of the box. I like machetes and I love this one. The Machete .230 is a great tool.

Check out the Machete .230 on TOPSKnives.com.

Review: Bogota “Titan – Mini” Entry Toolset

By on April 17, 2012 in EDC, Reviews, Survival

The Bogota Entry Toolsets that I have reviewed were already one of the smallest lock bypassing sets available at about 3″ long and barely wider than a toothpick. Now, small but functional lock bypassing sets have been taken to the next level with the introduction of the Bogota Titan-Mini Entry Toolset. The Titan-Mini is only 2″ long but still just as functional as their larger counter parts.

The Titan Minis (bottom) are even smaller than the already tiny Bogota Titan Entry Toolset

Overview

The Bogota Titan-Mini Entry Toolset utilizes the same proven rake design and titanium material as the Bogota Titan Entry Toolset. The difference is that the Titan-Mini is 1″ shorter overall (2″ versus 3″ for the Bogota Titan Entry Toolset). This compact size makes them even easier to carry tucked in a wallet, pinned in a backpack, dropped in a pocket, or just about anywhere else. The aircraft grade titanium alloy that they are constructed from makes them non-magnetic and extremely corrosion resistant.

The kit contains two pieces: a Bogota Rake and a feeler pick. Each piece is capable of serving as a tensioner for the other piece. Most locks can be bypassed with just these 2 pieces.

What Makes the Bogota Rake Special?

Bogota Rakes feature an ingenious design that sets them apart in terms of ease of use and function. The design features 3 small mountain peak shaped bumps that are spaced in such a way that they can disrupt all 5 tumblers in a typical lock with very little movement. It is so effective that even unskilled users will find success at bypassing some locks within minutes of use. However, they are also very rewarding because a practiced hand will find that locks will often yield to the Bogota Rake in seconds. In that sense, these Bogota Entry Toolsets remind me of the old board game Othello – they take a minute to learn and a lifetime to master.

The Bogota Titan-Mini Entry Toolset shown with a quarter for scale.

Instructions for Use

Using a Bogota Rake is simple. You position the rake and the tensioner in the keyway and then shake the rake almost as if you have had too much caffeine. This caused the peaks to move the pins and tumblers up and down rapidly. If you have set your tension correctly, the tumblers will eventually become caught at the shear line, allowing the lock cylinder to rotate. It is as easy as it sounds, but doing it quickly will take a lot of practice to develop the type of “feel” that is necessary to maximize the rake’s effectiveness.

The Bogota Titan-Mini Entry Toolset can also be used as a typical feeler pick and tensioner for locks that may be difficult to rake.

In Use

I have been using the Titan-Minis for several weeks now and I have been very, very impressed. I expected them to perform well since the Bogota Rake is such a proven design. What caught me off guard and impressed me most was that they really don’t give up anything in terms of performance to their larger counterparts. I think this is due in large part to the handle shape. The “handles” (the part you hold on to) aren’t as small as I was expecting. Some of the shorter overall length comes from turning the hooked end of the handle down further rather than just chopping an inch off the handle. There is still enough handle to work with.

I did notice that the shorter tensioner does require a more delicate touch. Tensioning a lock already requires a delicate touch and has always been one of the most difficult parts of lock bypassing for me to master. The shorter overall length of the Titan-Mini set seems to mean that I just have to be that much more on my game.

The 90 degree hook on the handle and smaller overall length opens up some new storage possibilities for the Titan-Minis. They sit sit nicely in the crease of a wallet with the hook down running along the bottom of the wallet. They also lay flat in even the smallest coin pockets in a pair of jeans. Of course, there is almost no limit to where you can carry something that is 2″ long and barely wider than a toothpick.

A gutted piece of paracord with melted ends makes a perfect sheath.

Conclusion

It is hard to imagine that there could possibly be a smaller, more discreet, fully functional lock bypassing kit than the Bogota Titan-Mini Entry Toolset from SEREPICK. These work so well that I really can’t see a reason to buy the slightly larger Bogota Titan Entry Toolset except for slightly more forgiving tensioner performance. I am really amazed by these little guys.

SEREPICK.com has all your Bogota Entry Toolset needs covered.

Review: Fight and Flight Tactical Leader’s Arm Board

By on April 9, 2012 in Reviews, Tactical Gear

When I first received the The Fight and Flight Leader’s Arm Board I didn’t anticipate how useful it could be to a non-military user like myself. I was actually a bit surprised that Dave, owner of Fight and Flight Tactical, even sent it to me at all. I have never needed to carry around pictures of high value targets or anything like that. After spending some time with it, I was surprised at just how many uses I found for it.

Fight and Flight Tactical Leader's Arm Board

Overview

At its most basic, the Leader’s Arm Board is an organizer for important information that must be available to you quickly. It attaches to your wrist (or a number of other places) and allows you to carry and quickly view information like maps, pictures, ballistic information, or anything else you can fit on a note card.

The top flap opens to reveal the first vinyl window. This window can be loaded quickly without unfolding the arm board.

The Leader’s Arm Board is constructed from 1000D nylon. It features 3 clear vinyl windows that can be used to display information. These windows are layered over one another so that they can be unfolded one at a time. All 3 of them are covered by a flap that is not detachable but can be secured out of the way with hook and loop. There is an elastic pen loop on the interior for securing a pen or alcohol marker for marking directly on the vinyl windows. A removable kydex stiffener is used to allow the Leader’s Arm Board to hold its comfortable curved shape and to provide a solid backing for writing on the vinyl windows.

The exterior of the Leader’s Arm Board features a 2″x3″ panel of loop material for attaching various types of patches. It also features a wrist strap that is removable, reversible, and completely ambidextrous. The wrist strap is threaded through webbing that can be used to attach the Leader’s Arm Board to any MOLLE interface using something like MALICE Clips. The webbing is covered with loop material so the panel can also be affixed via hook and loop.

After lifting the flap and first vinyl window, two more windows are revealed.

Quality

The Leader’s Arm Board shows the type of quality that you would expect for something that is designed to be exposed to the elements constantly and take a beating. There are bar tacks everywhere you would expect to find them. The hook and loop areas that will be stressed frequently are double or triple stitched. All of the cloth edges are covered and reinforced with color matched binding tape. The wrist strap is wide enough to be comfortable and has rubber threads woven in to keep it from sliding around on your arm. There is a lot of hallmarks of quality and attention to detail in the execution.

In Use

I used the Leader’s Arm Board the hardest for some navigation. I like to hike a local orienteering course whenever I can sneak away and this turned out to be a tremendous tool for tracking and organizing navigation information. I carried coordinates, location clues, UTM cards, small maps, quick reference information right on my wrist and in an easy to access format. I also found that the grab handle on the exterior flap was the perfect place to mount a small compass like a Suunto Clipper for a quick direction check. These are the types of things that you might like to have handy on any hike.

I also found it useful for carrying ballistic information like hold overs and reticle dimensions. I can also use it to outline the drills that I pre-plan for a day at the range. So, while I have never been in the military, I found a lot of use for this.

The top most window will easily accept a 3×5″ index card but the inner two windows required that the card’s width be trimmed. I would deal with a fraction of an inch more width for the ability to use full size index cards. This is definitely something that I would change.

The clever backing allows it to be mounted on the wrist, MOLLE webbing, or Velcro (hook and loop).

The design of the Leader’s Arm Board allows it to be worn comfortably over a wrist watch. If you are wearing something like a Garmin Foretrex, you will want to mount it on the opposite arms since they don’t really fit together comfortably.

The kydex stiffener is easily removable. If you are going to mount this to MOLLE webbing, you will need to remove it. I found that it was comfortable to wear with or without the stiffener but if you are going to be marking the vinyl windows, the stiffener really helps.

The back of the Leader’s Arm Board has loop material for attaching the pouch to a hook and loop surface. Most surfaces that you would want to attach this to, like the top of a plate carrier, will also be loop material so you will have to make some field expedient adapters. This can be accomplished easily by cutting a few strips of adhesive backed hook material and folding it onto itself so that it can be used to join two loop surfaces.

The outer most vinyl window is accessible from the outside of the Leader’s Arm Board. When it is curved around your forearm, this opening pulls open a bit which could allow rain or debris to enter. It isn’t gaping open and I didn’t have any issues, but a bit of hook and loop to close the opening might go a long way.

The Leader's Arm Board can lay flat for more mounting options when the stiffener is removed.

Conclusion

Like I said above, I was surprised at just how many uses I had for the Leader’s Arm Board once I spent some time with it. The quality is very good and the design is functional. I can’t speak to it’s uses on the battle field, but this blogger found it to be useful in my fields of pursuit.

Check out the Leader’s Arm Board on FightandFlight.com.

 

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