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12 O’ Clock Light Height Comparison

By on April 15, 2013 in Flashlights, Guns

I recently reviewed the INFORCE APL and mentioned that it worked well mounted in the 12 o’ clock position on a carbine. That statement spawned a couple of emails that asked if the APL obscured the sight picture when used in this position because it looks too bulky. So, I took this as an opportunity to compare the height of 4 of the most commonly used 12 o’ clock carbine lights: the Surefire X300, INFORCE WML, INFORCE APL, and Streamlight TLR-1.

12 o clock light comparison

I’ll let the above picture do some of the talking (click it for a larger version). The red line indicates the rough center of the optic which is mounted at 1/3 co-witness height. The green line represents the height of the tip of the front sight. The black line represents the height of the tallest light (the Streamlight TLR-1). I will tell you that, with the front sight up, you will not really even see any of these lights in your sight picture.

The lowest of the 4 is the INFORCE WML (WML review). It is a tremendous option due to its light weight, great switch, and clever lock out features. I absolutely love using this light in the 12 o’ clock position.

The INFORCE APL (APL review) is only slightly taller than the WML and, believe it or not, it is shorter than the Surefire X300. The picture has a bit of distortion near the edges that makes it appear otherwise but I can verify that the APL is about 1/16″ shorter than the highest point on the X300 (the battery compartment latch). Its switch lends it self very well to being mounted in this position and it is the lightest of all the lights shown.

The Surefire X300 is the third tallest light in this comparison but only because of its battery compartment latch. Without the latch, it is basically the same height as the APL. Its switch works very well in this position and it is used quite commonly for this application.

The Streamlight TLR-1 is the tallest light of the bunch but it still doesn’t block your sight picture. The switch is less ideal than the other lights (I find it to be better for right handed shooters since I think press down on the rocker switch is more intuitive and ergonomic for momentary activation). In spite of all that, it still works great.

You can rest assured. All of the above lights, including the APL, work very well in this role. If you would like more information on the advantages and disadvantages of 12 o’ clock mounted lights, check out our previous article on the subject.

Thanks to Stickman for the inspiration. He recently created a similar image with a few popular RDS.

Review: Elzetta ZFL-M60

By on April 11, 2013 in EDC, Flashlights

I don’t usually need to drive nails with my flashlight.  I rarely find myself in a helicopter in danger of dropping my light 250 feet to the ground. I don’t make a habit of disassembling and reassembling my flashlight under water. However, I have to admit that it is nice to know that my Elzetta ZFL-M60 can handle all of those things.

Elzetta ZFL-M60

Overview

The Elzetta ZFL-M60 is a modular, 2 cell tactical flashlight that can be ordered in a number of different configurations thanks to an entire suite of various tailcap and bezel options. It utilizes a Malkoff Devices M60 LED module to provide “235” lumens of regulated output for 1.5 hours and then an additional 6.5 hours of useful, diminishing output. It features a 1” diameter body (.99”) that is machined from 6061-T6 aluminum that is then hard anodized for durability.

The Little Things

The small, hardly noticeable, details are what really set Elzetta lights apart. It is impressive that they can survive hammering thousands of nails, 250 foot drops from helicopters, and still function even when they are full of water but it is even more impressive when you start to dig into the details that make this type of performance possible. Some of these details can be found in the genius of Gene Malkoff and his M60 LED Modules which are the heart of the Elzetta ZFL-M60. Some of the details can be found in the design of the Elzetta flashlight body that is designed specifically to work with the module. The real beauty though, is how these details work together.

Elzetta ZFL-M60 M60 Module 2

Elzetta ZFL-M60 M60 Module 1

The M60 modules are machined from a brass slug which makes them extremely durable and allows them to shed heat very well (heat is the enemy of LEDs). The entire module is assembled and then potted with epoxy. This turns it into a single piece with no moving parts and completely sealed from the outside environment. The entire module is coated with thermal grease that further enhances its contact with the aluminum body and thus the ability to shed heat.

The M60 module has its own lens which is why the Elzetta bezel lacks one. Instead, the bezel uses an o-ring to seal against the module. The o-ring also serves to isolate the module from some impact to the bezel. I recently dropped a fairly expensive light from another maker on a concrete floor from waist height which put a large dent in the bezel and a chip in the lens. The ZFL-M60 shrugs off this type of impact.

Elzetta ZFL-M60 Low Profile Bezel

Even the aluminum alloy that Elzetta chose for the main components of the light, 6061-T6, was chosen for specific properties. According to Elzetta, 6061-T6 has better thermal properties than other aluminum alloys so it sheds heat better while still being light in weight and more than tough enough for the application.

There are even details in the springs that make contact with the batteries! The ZFL-M60 has springs that act as both the positive and negative battery contacts (meaning there is one at each end of the light for a total of two). This type of spring set up is not necessary but it is best for lights that may find themselves mounted to firearms. The spring pressure at both ends ensures that battery contact will be maintained throughout the stages of recoil. If you have ever seen a “weapon light” that blinked under recoil, you will understand why Elzetta designed their lights this way.

Observations from Use

Let’s get something out of the way. Elzetta and Malkoff Devices are yanking your chain when it comes to output. Saying that the ZFL-M60 puts out 235 lumens is kind of like saying the Bugatti Veyron is a kind of fast. I don’t have an integrating sphere available to me to do actual measurements but this light definitely puts out more than 235 lumens. All those lumens, however many there actually may be, are put to good use in a very usable beam profile. There is a bright hotspot with very good throw and a fairly bright spill beam. It is very well balanced. I found it to be pretty ideal in actual use though it is a bit “ringy” if you are shining it at white walls.

The particular ZFL-M60 that I have is the LS2D model with the low profile bezel, 2 cell body, and High/Low Tailcap. This is a versatile combination that can handle a number of different applications from EDC to being mounted on a carbine thanks in large part to Elzetta’s insistence on keeping their switches simple. The High/Low Tailcap is one of the better designed switching systems available for a “tactical” flashlight. The tailcap allows the light to operate at full brightness when it is fully tightened (which is generally going to be the default position) and 15 lumens when it is loosened about a quarter turn. There are no double or triple presses or clicks to activate different levels. You press the tailcap switch, you get light. Easy, just like it should be.

Elzetta ZFL-M60 Tailcap

Speaking of the tailcap switch, this is one of the better ones that I have tried. In my experience, if an LED light is going to fail in some way other than dead batteries, it is usually the switch. Imported lights often use small diameter springs and parts that have cheap plating. Elzetta uses components that have an obvious element of quality over some imported lights. The Elzetta switch has a reassuring click that is both quiet and positive feeling with good resistance.

The low profile bezel is a very welcome addition to the Elzetta ZFL-M60 line, at least it is to me. The other bezels are larger and have a pretty over-the-top appearance. The low profile bezel keeps the weight down, is snag-free, and will still hurt like the dickens if you find yourself rapidly and repeatedly applying it to the forehead of some ne’er-do-well who is probably trying to steal your really cool Elzetta flashlight.

The body of the light is a masterwork as far as I am concerned. Other “tactical” flashlight makers should buy an Elzetta and learn a thing or two. Instead of relying on pocket shredding checkering to generate grip, Elzetta uses a more sensible 3 pronged approach: the hard anodized finish itself provides a bit of micro texture, there are circumferential grooves that provide some grip and they can be enhanced with rubber o-rings, and there is some fine checkering between the grooves. These features together provide more than enough grip and do it without destroying your clothing when you carry the light.

Elzetta ZFL-M60 Grip Texture

One thing that I think is missing from the Elzetta line up is a pocket clip. I like to carry my light clipped in my weak side pocket. Every time I carry my ZFL-M60, I find myself wishing that Elzetta would offer a spring steel pocket clip that allowed for bezel down carry. Dark Sucks currently makes a Ti clip that people seem to like, but I would prefer a steel version direct from Elzetta. This is the one issue that I have with this light and, to me, it is significant.

Wrap Up

If it sounds like I am gushing, it’s because I am. These lights offer a level of durability and reliability that I am not sure can be equaled by any other flashlight that is available. The various torture tests that these lights have endured are impressive, but you won’t really understand how impressive these lights are until you actually pull one apart to see why it survives these tests. If only there was a pocket clip! This light is missing out on pocket time just because it lacks a clip. Please, Elzetta, give us a clip!

Configure your own ZFL-M60 at Elzetta.com.

Elzetta ZFL-M60 Mounted

Review: INFORCE APL

By on April 9, 2013 in EDC, Flashlights, Guns

INFORCE proved that they could make a weapon light unlike anything else on the market with the release of the excellent WML. The WML really knocked my socks off so I had high hopes when I first learned about the new INFORCE pistol light, the APL. Now that I have had a few months with the APL, lets see if it lives up to those expectations.

INFORCE APL

Overview

The APL, like the WML, is constructed almost entirely of polymer with metal where necessary like where screws interface with the body of the light, where the bezel screws into the body of the light, and the bezel itself where the light sheds heat from the LED. The light puts out 200 lumens for 1.5 hours from just one CR123A battery. The single battery form factor and polymer construction keep the APL to a scant 2.83 ounces which is pretty amazing.

The APL’s switching system is completely original. It consists of 2 large paddles – one on each side of the light – that flank the trigger guard when installed on a handgun. The paddles are designed to be large and easy to activate. The user needs only to lightly press these paddles inward to activate the light.

INFORCE APL on G17 Bottom View

My favorite things about the WML are the 2 separate lock-out features that INFORCE thoughtfully included. They also included a lock-out feature on the APL. In order to ensure that the light cannot be activated, the user needs only to loosen the bezel about 1/4 of a turn. The bezel is made of aluminum and is o-ring sealed for water resistance.

The APL’s locking mechanism is easy to use. It has a small lever that pulls away from the body of the light to release it from a rail and is pushed toward the light to attach it. It is easy to use and it works.

INFORCE APL Locking Lever

Observations from Use

I spent time with the APL mounted on a handful of different Glocks and used it as a carbine light mounted in the 12 o’clock position. It filled both rolls very well.

INFORCE APL on G17

The light may look bulky when viewed on its own, but once you see it in person, you will probably be surprised at how compact it is. I know I was. It really isn’t any wider than most handguns that it will be mounted on which makes it noticeably slimmer (1.2″) than most pistol lights. It is also fairly short in overall length (3″) compared to most pistol lights on the market. This small size and extremely light weight make it an excellent choice for use on a CCW handgun. Several holster manufacturers are already set up to bend kydex for your favorite handgun with an APL attached. The compact size and light weight really make this light stand out.

INFORCE APL on G17 Top View

The switching system is mostly good but it isn’t perfect. I like that the paddles are large and easy to activate – even with heavy gloves. I like that the switch also lends itself well to use on a carbine mounted on the top or side rails. In fact, with the APL on a carbine side rail, the user can press down to activate the light which actually works quite well. My one potential issue with the switch is that it requires the user to press laterally which can impart some side movement to a handgun. INFORCE shaped that paddles with a beveled edge on the top that, with some reshaping, could allow the light to be reliably activated by pressing down. That would give users some options.

The mounting system is also good but not quite perfect. It is extremely easy to use. The lever system is smooth and it really seems to lock down tight to the rail. It is also great that it allows the light to be affixed to a firearm without having to slide the light on from the front. This keeps the user’s hand away from the muzzle. INFORCE provides 2 different cross bars that are easy to replace, one for universal rails (most handguns) and one for MIL-STD-1913 rails. I find that the universal cross bar works well enough on both handguns and 1913 rails that I just use it. However, no matter where I attached the 1913 and no matter which cross bar I used, I found that I could never fully close the lever when the APL was attached to a rail. It always stuck out a very small amount which seems like a snag issue waiting to turn into a loss of light issue, though it never even came close to happening in my testing.

INFORCE APL on Carbine

The lock-out feature is nice to have. It is very common for those who use pistol style weapon lights and soft gun cases to find that their batteries are dead after a trip to the range because the case can accidentally active the light. In some cases, the light can overheat and cause the batteries to vent which is a much bigger inconvenience than just changing the batteries. The lock-out feature can prevent this. Though, if you are a police officer or armed citizen carrying the APL mounted on a carbine in a soft case in your trunk, it is quite possible that you could forget to undo the lock-out if you are in a hurry to access your carbine. You will want to carefully weigh the pros and cons of using this feature.

The beam profile of the APL is quite good for indoor use. It has a broad profile with bright spill beam. There is a hotspot at the center but it is not as defined as most and transitions smoothly to the bright spill beam. It really illuminates a large area. The runtime seems to be true to what is advertised.

INFORCE APL On Carbine Top View

Wrap Up

I own several of the big name pistol lights and, in spite of the issues that I mentioned above, this is the best pistol light that I have used to date. The locking lever issue can be fixed by the user with some trimming (if it even needs fixing at all). The paddle “issue” can be overcome with training or a slight modification. Neither of these issues could over shadow the ease of use, the versatility, or the compact size and light weight of the APL. There is room to improve but the APL is a tremendous light.

Impact Weapons Components carries the entire INFORCE weapon light line up. Check out the APL at ImpactWeaponsComponents.com.

Tactical Handyman: Weapon Light Shroud

By on April 1, 2013 in Flashlights, Tactical Handyman

If you have spent much time on a shooting range working with a weapon light, chances are you know what happens to the lens of a weapon light that is used in proximity to the muzzle of a firearm. It doesn’t take long before the lens is clouded with carbon and unburnt powder. It isn’t especially difficult to clean if you know how to do it (pencil eraser works great) but it can start to severely degrade the output of your light which can have some serious situational awareness/target identification implications if you don’t deal with it… or prevent it.

12 OClock Light Mount Surefire X300

When it comes to clouding a weapon light lens with carbon, my worst offenders are usually 12 o’clock mounted weapon lights on extended rails. In one case, I have a Surefire X300 mounted nearly directly over the muzzle of a 14.5″ barrel on a 13″ rail. The lens of the X300 clouds and darkens fairly quickly in this position so I channeled the Tactical Handyman and came up with a simple, easy, and dirt cheap DIY fix that keeps my light running at full output for a good long time.

What You Need

  • Scissors
  • Bicycle Tire Inner Tube
  • Ruler

Instructions

I said this was going to be simple and it really is. I could probably just show you the picture and you could figure it out more easily than I can explain it.

Light Shroud Cuts

Light Shroud Side View

  1. Cut an approximately 4″ length of bicycle tire inner tube. 4″ will work with longer lights like the X300 but will likely be too long for lights like the INFORCE APL and Streamlight TLR-1. You can tweak the length to your liking later.
  2. Cut a half circle in the side of the tube starting at the center of the length of tube and curling back toward one end. Hold the tube flat while you do this. Cut starting at the crease, away from the crease, and then curl back to the crease to finish the half circle cut. The object is to end up with a full circle cutout.
  3. Stretch the section of tube onto your weapon light with the long end over the bezel of the light so that the rail mounting interface sticks out through the circle cutout. The tube should stretch well forward of the bezel of the light to shroud it from debris and carbon coming from the muzzle.
  4. Mark the top of the inner tube with the depth at which the bezel is sitting.
  5. Remove the inner tube from the weapon light.
  6. Make an angled cut from the the mark that you just made to the “front” of the tube. This angled cut will allow the shroud to protect the bezel from carbon coming from the sides and bottom while interfering with the beam profile as little as possible, if at all.
  7. Stretch the cover back onto the light and activate the light to check the beam. Trim the shroud as needed until you reach a ratio of protection to beam interference that you are comfortable with. Depending on the beam profile, you may be able to trim it so it doesn’t interfere at all. You will also want to trim the back end so that it doesn’t interfere with the switches.

NOTE: Take care to make sure that all of your cuts are nicely rounded. Any sharp corners will make the rubber tear as your stretch it onto the light.

Light Shroud Back

Finished Product

The finished shroud holds up well to the beating it takes from the muzzle gasses but it won’t last forever. Inner tube is cheap enough that you can easily replace it. Every Tactical Handyman should keep bicycle tire inner tube around the work bench because you will always find new uses for it. The shroud works on my X300 without interfering with the beam at all. It may slightly impact beams of light with wider beam profiles depending on how long you make it.

I should also note that this is really only for long gun applications only. It won’t fit in most holsters that are made for handguns with weapon lights and the holster can bend and set the shroud over the lens over time causing your to draw and present a handgun with a weapon light that is occluded by the shroud. That is bad news.

I used to clean my weapon light after every range trip. Since I made my first shroud several months ago, I haven’t had to clean my light at all.

Light Shroud Top

Light Shroud Front

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