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Tactical Handyman: Magpul RVG Mod

By on August 1, 2011 in Guns, Tactical Handyman

Magpul’s RVG (and MVG) has proven to be a tremendous value in the crowded market of vertical grips. It offers a solid, durable, and relatively lightweight way to really get a grip on your rifle. It is long enough that it can be used with a full grip (hammer grip) but savvy users will find that it is well shaped to work with the thumb break or thumbs forward grip. However, when it is used in this method, it is much larger than it needs to be.

This installment of The Tactical Handyman is nothing earth shattering, but it is useful. We will be taking a look at some modifications to the MVG and RVG that will make these vertical grips better suited to a thumb break or hand stop style grip, increase grip, and save a little bit of weight in the process.

Tools:

  1. Cutting implement that is suitable for plastic (a hacksaw or hacksaw blade works great, a rotary tool could also work)
  2. Pencil
  3. Sandpaper in various grits
  4. Rotary tool (optional)
  5. Stippling gear (optional)

Procedure:

Our goal is just to shorten the grip to remove any length and weight that we aren’t using. You will be tailoring it to how you grip the rifle. If you are using it as a handstop and most of your hand is actually gripping the hand guards then you can take a ton off the grip. If you are using a pure thumbs forward grip, you may want to leave most of the MVG intact. Your grip will dictate how much is removed.

The procedure is simple. As with any project, remove all ammunition from the area that you are working in. Check that your carbine is unloaded. Double check that it is unloaded and then check it again. You can’t check too many times. Then…

  1. Study how you grip the rifle. Present it several times and as you do, mark the lowest point on the grip that your hand is contacting with your pencil. You will want to do this several times and at full speed to really get a good idea of where to start cutting.
  2. Plan the cut. Once you have decided on a pencil mark to use for your cut, consider adding about 1/8″ to account for sanding later or just to give yourself some room on the grip. I decided that I would cut my RVG at a diagonal since I only contact the front of the grip. You will want to plan your cut now because it will be too late after you start cutting.
  3. Make the cut! You can remove the grip and put it in a vice if you like. This would be the safest thing to do, especially if you are using a power cutting tool. I using a hacksaw blade so I just kept the RVG mounted. I wrapped one end of the blade in tape so I could grip it and I liked the control and flexibility that this method gave me. You can use the grooves on the front of the RVG to align your cutting tool.
  4. Clean up your cut. Use your rotary tool if you have one or your sandpaper to clean up the sharp edges where you made your cut. I rounded the edges fairly aggressively. Finish the clean up with the finest grain sand paper that you have.
  5. Stipple the grip. This step is optional. After step 4 you will have a functional grip but you can really increase its function with some quick and dirty work with your soldering iron. If you need help you can check out my article on stippling gear.

I am not the first one to do this modification and, like I said, it isn’t really earth shattering but it is functional. I think the stippling really enhances the functionality of this mod so I strongly encourage you to give it a try.

Heat Stippling Gear

By on April 20, 2011 in Tactical Handyman

I recently posted about heat stippling long guns and a few of my fellow Trigger Jerks expressed interest in seeing the gear that I use to stipple. My intention is not to get to deeply into how to stipple, but rather to show the gear that I use and share how you can make your own.

This stippling was accomplished using a modified wood burning bit.

When I first started stippling, I used a small pointed bit to apply a single dimple at a time. This method yielded decent results but it took a lot of time and I would often accidentally leave small areas untextured. It worked, but I was sure I could figure out a more efficient way of stippling.

This is the type of large diameter bit that can be modified.

The key, for me, was to find a wood burning kit with large diameter bits. These larger diameter bits can be modified into a tool that can lay down several dimples at a time, instead of just one. If you can’t find a kit with larger bits, you can use a brass screw that matches the thread pitch of your wood burning kit.

This is what the bit looks like after being ground down and cut with the cutting wheel.

I grind the bit flat using the sanding wheel on my Dremel rotary tool and then cut checkering in to its face using a Dremel cutting wheel. The brass bits are very soft and cut easily. The whole process takes less than 5 minutes.

The cuts don't have to be precise to give good results.

When you are done, you will have a stippling bit that covers a wider area and lays down several dimples at a time. It works best if you overlap each press and rotate it a quarter turn between presses. The result is very dense and consistent texture that takes a lot less time to apply.

Give it a try.

Heat Stippling – Not Just for Handguns

By on March 31, 2011 in Guns, Tactical Handyman

Heat stippling is nothing new. Everyone with a wood burner and Glock has improved their grip by adding some extra texture. Stippling works great on handguns, but can long guns benefit from stippling? They certainly can!

My first adventure in heat stippling a long gun came as an attempt to solve a problem with my AK47s. I typically run my AR-15s with a vertical grip or hand stop. This allows me to use my support hand to pull the AR back into my shoulder and control the muzzle. The vertical grip or handstop is basically just something to pull against. I wanted to be able to run my AK-47s the same way, but I was unwilling to spend the money for a quality rail system and vertical grip for a weapon that is not my “go-to”.

I needed a way to generate a lot of grip so that the AK could be pulled back into my shoulder in the manner that I prefer, so I broke out the wood burner. After a few minutes of work, I had a small area of the polymer lower hand guard  stippled. I took the rifle to the range and I was thrilled with how it performed – so thrilled that I stippled even more of the hand guard when I returned home. I also stippled my second AK.

The extra grip generated by the stippling really aids in driving the AK. I was able to pull the rifle aggressively into my shoulder with less effort which helped keep the muzzle level during fast strings of fire. It isn’t a perfect replacement for a vertical grip but, for me, it has basically the same effect.

AR-15s can benefit from stippling as well. I applied some texture to an AR-15 that I have set up with Magpul MOE hand guards and an IWC Weapon Control MOUNT-N-SLOT. The result is excellent. The grip is positive and aggressive without being overly harsh. I find that I am able to lock my hand into place and really drive the gun. It also works great with gloves which is very nice in the winter.

I am certainly not the first person to heat stipple a long gun but it is far less common than heat stippled handguns. I hope this post encourages you to try your hand at stippling. You might just find that it solves a problem for you, too.

Jute Twine – Para-Cord’s Old School, All Natural Cousin

By on January 29, 2011 in Survival, Tactical Handyman

Cordage is an important part of any Tactical Handyman’s EDC (every day carry) or survival kit. The cordage of choice in these types of kits is often para-cord due to its compact size, decent tensile strength, multiple uses, and relatively low price. I carry para-cord whenever I am in the woods just because it has come in handy so many times, but, recently, I have found myself using jute twine just as often.

Jute twine can be used for many of the same survival applications as para-cord.

Jute Twine is useful for many of the same tasks that you would typically use para-cord like lashing branches when building shelter, or stringing up a tarp or poncho. In fact, I have found that it stretches less than para-cord under load. I actually prefer it for keeping the lines on a tarp shelter taught even though I might have to double up the lines to keep them from breaking on windy days. It weighs less than para-cord and costs less too.

Jute Twine’s versatility comes from the fact that is an excellent fire making aid. It can be shredded easily with a knife or sharp rock. Once the jute twine is sufficiently frayed it can be lightly folded into a bundle that will readily catch fire when it catches a spark. You can also add small wood chips, twigs, fatwood, pine resin, shredded bark, or other tinder to the  jute twine to make a tinder bundle. A few feet of jute twine and a ferro rod make an excellent fire starting combination.

Cut a short section of jute twine.

Shred the twine by mincing, scraping, and slicing with your knife.

Roll the shredded twine into a bundle. You can add other tinder to the bundle if you wish. This bundle will readily catch a spark like those from a ferro rod.

Sadly, jute twine is not perfect. It is not as strong as para-cord and it can begin to rot in just a few days, especially if it gets wet. The ends can also fray very easily and can not be melted to control the fraying like para-card. However, given its versatility as both cordage and a very efficient fire making aid, there is definitely room for several feet of jute twine in anyone’s kit.

Tactical Handyman: No Slot? No Problem!

By on November 1, 2010 in Guns, Tactical Handyman

Don't let the lack of a pre-made slot keep you from mounting your Mount-N-Slot where you need it.

When it comes to attaching Impact Weapon Component’s Mount-N-Slot hardware, don’t limit yourself to only the places that you have a pre-made slot. The flat sides of the Magpul MOE Hand Guards make attaching a Mount-N-Slot in a custom location an easy task.

In this installment of the Tactical Handyman, we will mount a Mount-N-Slot Rotation Limited QD Sling on midlength Magpul MOE Hand Guards. The midlength MOE Hand Guards lack slots on the sides close to the receiver which is a shame because this is an optimal place to mount a sling swivel.

The midlength MOE Hand Guards lack slots on the rear sides. This is where we will attach the Mount-N-Slot.

Materials:

  • Mount-N-Slot of your choice
  • Magpul MOE Hand Guards
  • Drill with 7/32″ bit
  • Ruler (with long straight edge)
  • Pencil
  • Awl (optional but can be useful for cleaning up or slightly enlarging the drill holes, a Swiss Army Knife works great)

Measure carefully and mark your two drill locations as outlined in steps 3 through 5 below.

Procedure:

  1. Check that your Ar-15 is unloaded by removing the magazine and then visually inspecting the chamber. Once you have completed this, check it again. Remove all ammunition from your work space.
  2. Remove the MOE Hand Guards from your AR-15.
  3. Use your ruler and pencil to draw a line that runs through the center of the slots, parallel to the bore. NOTE: The results of steps 3-5 are shown in the picture above.
  4. Mark the drill hole closest to the delta ring on the line taking care to place it in such a way that the Mount-N-Slot can lay flat when mounted.
  5. Mark your second drill hole by measuring 11/16″ from your first hole. The two mounting points on a Mount-N-Slot Rotation Limited QD Sling are about 11/16″ center to center. You will have to measure any other Mount-N-Slot you may be using.
  6. Drill both holes using a 7/32″ drill bit.
  7. Clean up the holes as necessary with an awl or small sharp knife.
  8. Attach the Mount-N-Slot per manufacturer instructions using the two newly drilled holes instead of a slot.

This is a simple project with a big pay off in increased functionality. Mounting the sling in this location improves the range of motion you will have with the AR slung and keeps the hand guard well clear so you have plenty of room to hold it with your support hand.

Remember to use the coupon code “triggerjerk” at checkout to receive 5% discount at IWC.

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