web analytics

Archive | Guns


Impact Weapons Components shows no signs of slowing the flow of MOUNT-N-SLOTs. Their latest MOUNT-N-SLOT is one that I have been looking forward to for a long time. The SMC Light MOUNT-N-SLOT is designed to allow you to attach many of the most popular weapon mounted lights to any size Magpul MOE Hand Guards (carbine, midlength, and rifle length) or Bushmaster ACR hand guards.

The SMC Light MOUNT-N-SLOT attaches to the side of the MOE Hand Guards and then cantilevers the light up toward to the front sight base (FSB). This light placement allows the bezel of the light to extend beyond the FSB which minimizes shadowing and it places the tailcap switch directly under thumb when the rifle is gripped naturally. I have found this placement to work very well.

The SMC’s modular design allows it to work with many of the most popular lights for weapon mounting. It works with the Surefire Scout lights via direct attachment. With the addition of a proprietary flashlight ring, it will also allow you mount lights like the Surefire G2X, G2L, 6P, Streamlight Polytac and more. If you ever decide to change your light, the rings will be available for purchase separate from the mount so you can replace just the ring and not the entire mount.

IWC machines the SMC from Billet 6061-T6 Aluminum and then tops them off with with a durable black hard anodized finish. All of the unnecessary material is milled away to keep the weight down to 1.820 ounces. The SMC Light MOUNT-N-SLOT comes with all the hardware and tools that you need to mount it on your hand guards.

You can read more about the SMC Light MOUNT-N-SLOT on IWC’s website.

Remember to use the coupon code “triggerjerk” at checkout to receive 5% discount at IWC.

Battle Comp Teases with the AKBC

Battle Comp is well known for their series of compensators for the AR family of weapons. Many users have asked that they bring the Battle Comp to the AK. Well, AK users need not feel neglected any longer.

Battle Comp released video of their upcoming AKBC compensator for the AK. The video shows some impressive performance. The muzzle rise is nearly completely eliminated. The AK can be seen pushing back against the shooter but the muzzle stays nearly level.

Battle Comp is expecting the AKBC to be ready in about 7 weeks. In the mean time, you can check out their other compensators on their website.

J-Frame Drop in Duty/Carry Kit Now Available from Apex Tactical Specialties

I mentioned the J-Frame Drop in Duty/Carry Kit from Apex Tactical Specialties (ATS) a few weeks ago. ATS made a big splash with the kit at the 2011 NRA Show in Pittsburgh. It is no surprise that people are clamoring for this kit since there are so many who carry Smith & Wesson J-Frame revolvers and the price is very reasonable ($24.95). The kit is now available for purchase.

This kit was specifically designed to reduce the double action trigger pull weight without compromising reliability. This is accomplished by using high quality springs and balancing the weights of all the various springs in the kit. Often, reliability issues happen when springs are mixed and matched. The trigger pull is reduced from the typical 12 pounds to a much more manageable 9 pounds. Impressively, this is accomplished without the need for a gunsmith visit – this is a drop in kit.

I am going to have to pick one of these kits up for my S&W 442.

You can read more about the J-Frame Drop in Duty/Carry Kit on Apex Tactical Specialties’ website.

Modernizing the AK Part 7: Stocks and Grips

This is the 7th and final installment of this series on Modernizing the AK. In this post, I’ll discuss stocks and grips. These are parts that you can spend a lot of money on, but do you need to spend a lot of money here to get functional gear?


You typically see 3 basic types of stocks mounted on AKs: fixed stocks, folding stocks, and AR-15 style collapsible stocks. The fixed stocks and some folding stocks can be considered traditional for the AK.

Most AKs that come into the USA have fixed stocks. These are generally made from wood or plastic. The stocks come in a variety of lengths. Some longer stocks are referred to as “NATO length”. These are about 1.25″ longer than what is referred to as “Warsaw length”. I prefer the shorter length because they fit better with my more squared up shooting stance. They also work better with plate carriers. If you shoot with a more bladed shooting stance or have long arms you may prefer a longer stock. The key when choosing a stock (or any piece of gear for that matter) is choosing something that works for you and your style of shooting. Professional training will help you nail these issues down. Fixed stocks are inexpensive and functional.

You would be hard pressed to tell the difference between this Russian sidefolder and a fixed stock.

Folding stocks are fairly common on AKs. While they have a certain cool factor, I can say from experience that you probably won’t use the folding functionality as much as you think. Folding stocks serve only to make the rifle more compact for transport. There are many different types of folding stocks on the market. These can mostly be broken down into 2 different types: side folders and under folders. There is basically only one type of under folder, but there are many types of side folders.

Many folding stocks on the market are junk and those that are not junk cost quite a bit of money. Folders like the Russian triangle side folders, Russian polymer side folders, and under folders require modifications to the receiver that may be a bit beyond your typical do-it-yourselfer. This brings the cost up even higher. Folding stocks from ACE LTD. offer a solid alternative to those who want to install their own stock. The ACE folding stocks can be had in 3 different lengths or with a special folding mechanism that allows the user to mount an AR-15 style collapsible stock.

Folding stocks from ACE LTD. are easily installed and customizable for length.

Collapsible stocks offer what is probably the most useful enhancement of any of the AK stock options. They are adjustable for length of pull which allows you to tailor the length of your stock to fit your gear (like a plate carrier) or your shooting style. They are extremely functional but they are far from traditional if that means anything to you. If you want a stock that both folds and collapses, you can install an ACE LTD. folder mentioned above. The best collapsible stock on the market is probably the AK47/AKM/AKS Stock Adapter from VLTOR. It features QD sling swivel sockets and watertight storage.


The standard AK grips are smaller than many shooters in the USA prefer but they are functional. If you do feel the need to replace your grip, there are more options than ever.

My favorite grip is the Galil style grip that ACE LTD. used to manufacture, but it is no longer available. Two of the most popular grips are relatively new from Hogue and US-PALM. Both do a good job of filling the hand and can provided storage for small items like batteries.

Several people that I know are reporting very good things about the MD Arms Molot Style Grip. It is based on the excellent Molot grip from Russia that is highly sought after and relatively expensive here in the USA. At only $12, the MD Arms version is a great value.


You can spend a lot on grips and stocks without getting that much of a return in terms of functionality. Both of my AKs have folding stocks and if I had it to do over again, I probably would have spent the money on ammo instead of a high end stock. Make sure you have a clear idea of what you will gain from a grip or stock upgrade before you drop the coin.

Modernizing the AK Part 6: Triggers

This is the 6th installment of our series on modernizing the AK. In this installment I will be discussing triggers.

I generally prefer to keep the fire control parts of any fighting rifle as original as possible. The parts that are original to these firearms have generally been engineered for durability and reliability at the expense of a light, crisp trigger pull. However, one thing that I do not permit is trigger slap (which AKs are somewhat notorious for). Trigger slap is what happens when a poorly constructed trigger resets – it literally slaps your trigger finger. After a long course of fire it can become somewhat painful, especially on a cold day.

The Tapco G2 trigger is standard on many AK builds.

There are two ways to address trigger slap: modify the existing fire control parts or purchase aftermarket parts. There are plenty of good tutorials online about modifying your existing parts to reduce or eliminate trigger slap. If you are unwilling or unable to modify these parts yourself, you are left with the aftermarket option.

I have experience with 3 different triggers that are readily available. The first is the Red Star Arms Adjustable AK Trigger System. Once it is adjusted, it offers a surprising clean, crisp, and light trigger pull. That excellent trigger pull comes with a price. It costs more than any of the following options and it has small set screws that are used to adjust it. I prefer trigger groups that don’t have screws that can back out at inopportune times, but this is a very well made option.

The second option is the Tapco G2 Trigger. Many US AK builders are including these on their builds now. In fact many people have them and don’t even know it. I have a Tapco G2 that came installed in a very nice Vector Arns Polish build. It has served well. The G2 triggers seem to have a fairly wide variance in trigger pull weight (which might have more to do with the variance in AK receivers). Some of them are extremely light which isn’t really what I prefer for a fighting rifle. They also lack any sort of trigger feel. You can’t feel the point at which the trigger will break or the reset. It is just a sort of light and long trigger pull that lacks any sort of tactile indication of when the shot will break. It can take some getting used to.

The two-stage trigger that comes standard with the Arsenal SGL-21 is very decent.

The third option is my favorite. K-Var has a 2 stage trigger that they sell that is competitively priced and offers a very decent trigger pull. It isn’t as light as the G2 or the Red Star Arms triggers but it very useable. It feels like a traditional military 2 stage trigger with a light take up in the first stage and then a fairly clean let off in the second stage. It isn’t a match trigger by any stretch of the imagination, but most AKs aren’t match rifles by any stretch of the imagination.


To sum up, I don’t modify the trigger in an AK as an accuracy aid (though it doesn’t hurt), but I do modify the trigger in order to make the rifle more shootable. I do not tolerate trigger slap and you shouldn’t either. Whether you modify your current trigger group or purchase an aftermarket trigger group is up to you. If your AK doesn’t exhibit any trigger slap, then spend the money and time on practice instead of a new trigger.

Modernizing the AK Part 5: Selectors

In this fifth installment of this series on updating the AK, I will be looking at selector switches. While these may seem insignificant at first, there is actually a significant ergonomic advantage to be gained here.

The SWIFT Lever from Blackjack Buffers is no longer manufactured but it is classic AK gear.

The standard AK selector is a thin lever that rides flat against the receiver. It is moved up for “safe” and down for “fire”. The biggest issue with it is that the user usually can not maintain a firing grip while operating it. One method of operation requires the user to keep their thumb hooked on the grip while their other four fingers sweep the selector downward. Another technique has the user carry the AK with their weapon hand (strong hand) on the magazine and their thumb resting on the selector, the thumb is used to sweep the selector down and then the hand is moved to the grip.

The two above techniques may work and they may be “traditional,” but they are not efficient. I prefer to use an enhanced selector switch that has a small extension on it for use with the index finger on my right hand. This allows me to maintain a firing grip while operating the selector.

It is good practice to run your finger straight against the receiver to avoid accidentally contacting the trigger. These upgraded selector levers allow me to do that and naturally sweep the selector to “fire” in the same motion as I would normally use to move to the trigger. When it is time to “safe” the AK, the same motion in reverse works to move the selector to the “safe” position and get my finger off the trigger.

The best upgraded selector that I have used is the SWIFT Lever by Blackjack Buffers but they are no longer manufactured. It used a relatively long tab with a 90 degree bend and works very well in both directions (up and down). You may be able to find them on the secondary market. Now I use the Kreb’s Custom Enhanced Selector Lever. It is nearly as good as the SWIFT Lever (and that is saying a lot).

The Krebs Enhanced Selector Lever is a worthy upgrade to any AK.



I consider one of these selector levers a must for any AK. The ergonomic and efficiency gains cannot be ignored.

Modernizing the AK Part 4: Optics

The vast majority of modern combat rifles make use of optics. Improvements in technology have made it possible to have optics that are extremely reliable and durable. In this fourth installment of our discussion about modernizing the AK, we will be taking a look at optics and mounts.

There was a time when mounting an optic on your AK would draw ridicule from hordes of AK traditionalists. Now, savvy shooters have realized that optics, like red dot sights (RDS), actually make their weapon more efficient and effective. Many are surprised to find just how accurate a quality AK can be after they shoot with an optic the first time.


Even an Aimpoint CompM2 can be co-witnessed on an Ultimak M1-B.


This is a bit of a golden age for AK accessories. There are several high quality options on the market that allow shooters to mount a tremendous number of quality optics. The mount you choose will likely be dependent on the optic that you choose and the type of rifle that you own.

RS Products is a new manufacturer of AK optic mounts. Their new AKM mount allows AK shooters to mount an Aimpoint (or similar red dot sight) directly over the action. The mount sits low enough that the iron sights can be used through the Aimpoint and it is adjustable from side to side so that it can be centered over the AK. This is a really excellent option. You can also look for other optic mounts from RS Products in the future.

The Dog Leg Scope Rail from Texas Weapon Systems is a very clever optic mounting system. It replaces the standard top cover with a railed top cover that locks into the rear sight and a special cam lock release button. It is a very solid system that sits low enough to provide a proper cheek weld and still allows normal field stripping. It also allows the mounting of a small back up iron sight that really extends the sight radius of the AK. The Dog Leg Scope Rail would be a great choice for mounting a compact variable magnification optic.

The Ultimak M1-B is a tried and true option that has been on the market for several years now. It is my optic mount of choice because it sits low enough to co-witness an Aimpoint and is also a great place to mount a white light. Some users have also used the Ultimak M1-B to mount “scout” style scopes. It is a very durable and relatively light weight mount.

An Ultimak M1-B can serve as an optic mounting platform as well as a place to mount a white light.


In spite of the AK traditionalists who repeat the same “Keep that crap off my AK!” dogma over and over without critical thought, many shooters are finding that there is a place for optics on an AK. Shooting iron sights requires the shooter to align the target, the front sight, and the rear sight. The shooter must focus on the front sight. An optic like an RDS allows the shooter to align only the target and the optic’s reticle. The shooter can focus on the target. Modern optics promote situational awareness, accuracy, speed, and are durable enough to be relied upon.

I use Aimpoints on my AKs and I highly recommend them. The newest micro Aimpoints add barely any weight to the rifle and greatly enhance the function of the rifle. Quality RDS, like Aimpoints, are extremely durable, reliable, and offer battery life that is measured in years, not hours. Aimpoints and other RDS really shine from 0-200 yards which is an excellent match to the capabilities of the AK. 300 yards hits are also very possible with an AK/Aimpoint combination.

Mounts that place the optic over the receiver like the Dog Leg Scope Rail open up the possibility of using a low power variable magnification optic like the Trijicon TR21 Accupoint or similar. The lowest power setting on this style of optic lets users engage close targets effectively, while the higher magnification settings give the shooter more confidence at extended ranges.

The Ultimak M1-B has plenty of space for an Aimpoint micro and white light.


There is no reason to ignore combat optics unless you are an AK collector. If you are an AK shooter, especially one who trains to use their AK to defend their life, you can gain a tremendous amount of functionality and efficiency by mounting a quality optic. Choose the optic that you want, find a mounting method that is suited to that optic, and then train hard.

Modernizing the AK Part 3: Hand Guards

Hand guards are like a steering wheel for your gun. They are the interface between your hand and the gun. In this third installment of this series on updating the AK, we will be taking a look at hand guards.

The AK has two hand guards: an upper hand guard that contains the gas tube and a lower hand guard that protects the user from a hot barrel. There are many upper hand guard optic mounts but we will concentrate on those in a later post. For the purposes of this post, we will be discussing hand guards as a weapon control and accessory mounting platform only.

Stippling can greatly increase the functionality of standard polymer hand guards.

Lower Hand Guard

The lower hand guard is much larger than the upper hand guard and represents the majority of your gripping surface. Thankfully, AK users have more choices than ever when choosing a hand guard, but, as with any other firearm accessory, you should be cautious of what you spend your hard earned money on.

If the AK is your primary rifle you may want to consider adding a lower hand guard rail. A railed hand guard will give you more flexibility to mount vital accessories like a white light and sling. You can also consider adding a vertical or hand stop if you are so inclined, but care should be taken that the vertical grip does not interfere with rocking a magazine into the magazine well. Midwest Industries makes a very nice and very reasonably priced rail system for the AK. Ultimak makes an excellent extended rail system that helps shooters who like to run their hand out further than the standard hand guards allow (it also alleviates the issues with running a vertical grip on the AK platform by allowing you to run it out closer to the muzzle).

If the weight and cost of AK rail systems turn you off, there are other options. I choose to run the standard polymer hand guards on my AKs because I don’t want to spend the money for a rail on a weapon system that isn’t my primary. I start with quality plastic hand guards that have a metal heat shield and stipple them for increased grip. I use the increased grip to aggressively pull the AK into my shoulder much like I would with a vertical grip. I use the standard sling mount and mount my white light on the upper hand guard.

An Ultimak M1-B can serve as an optic mounting platform as well as a place to mount a white light.

Upper Hand Guard

The standard upper hand guard’s main role is to shield the user from the heat of the gas tube. Aftermarket railed upper hand guards have additional functionality, like allowing you to mount optics.

I prefer the Ultimak M1-B optic mount for my upper hand guard. It places a micro Aimpoint (or an M2/M3 with a low enough moutn) low enough that it cowitnesses with the iron sights. It is also long enough to offer plenty of space for mounting a light in an offset mount.

I should note that the offset light mount that you use should be made from metal and sit very low on the rail. I wouldn’t trust a plastic mount to handle the heat of the Ultimak, and if it is too thick it will obstruct the view through your Aimpoint. I have found the VLTOR offset scout mount to be excellent. This one from KZ works if you are on a budget, but it sticks out from the rail more than I prefer.

The Vltor Offset Scout Mount is a perfect combo with the Ultimak M1-B.


White lights and slings are a must on any defensive rifle. Choosing the right hand guard set up makes mounting them easy. If you choose your hand guard set up wisely you can improve the way your weapon handles, the speed at which you can drive the AK, the ease of mounting accessories, and it doesn’t have to cost a ton.

Modernizing the AK Part 2: Sights

This is the second installment of my series on updating the AK. We started with muzzle devices and now we are working our way back to the iron sights.

There are a couple of complaints that most users have with the standard AK sights. The rear sight notch is too narrow and the sight radius (the distance between the sights) is too short. The sight notch is easy to fix but the sight radius issues are a little more difficult.

XS Sights Tritium Front Sight


Front Sights

Many shooters like to use a tritium front sight so that they can see it in low light. I have used the front sight from XS Sights and it is definitely easy to see but, like most AK tritium front sights, it is very thick which makes it more difficult to use at longer distances.

When you are sighting in your AK, you adjust the elevation by turning the front sight. You can orient the standard AK front sight with any of the four sides facing the shooter. Tritium front sights can only be oriented in one direction. This means that you loose quite a bit of precision in your elevation adjustment. This will likely be a non-issue in actual use considering the AK is not an extremely precise weapon to begin with.

Tritium front sights have a clear upside – their ability to be seen in low light. However, they are not without downsides – decreased precision at longer distances and decreased precision in elevation adjustment.

Standard rear sight that has been widened with a small round file

Rear Sights

The cheapest and easiest way to vastly improve the rear sight is to use a small file to open up the notch. Some people open it up as far as 3/16” but I find that about 1/8” is fine for me.

You might also consider purchasing a peep style rear sight. Krebs Custom makes an excellent rear sight that has a peep aperture instead of the typical notch. It retains the ability to use the BDC feature of the standard rear sight. MOJO also makes excellent peep style rear sights. The MicroClick rear sights from MOJO are even adjustable for bullet drop at various ranges.

There are two ways that I know of to increase the sight radius of your AK. The first is to use a quality rail that mounts over the receiver cover like those from Krebs Custom with an integral rear sight or Texas Weapon Systems with the accessory rear sight. These will allow you to use rail mounted rear sight. You can also use the rear sight from Tech Sights. It mounts at the rear of the receiver cover which increases sight radius and places the rear sight very close to your eye.

Krebs Custom rear peep sight


If you plan to use the iron sights on your AK as you primary sighting system, I highly recommend that you do something to improve them. Opening up the standard rear sight with a file is very effective and very inexpensive. Even if you plan on mounting an optic, I suggest that the rear sight notch be opened up so you have an effective back up to your optic.

Modernizing the AK: Muzzle Devices

Arsenal SGL-21

The AK family of rifles have proven themselves to be reliable and durable weapons. They have also enjoyed tremendous aftermarket support in the last several years. Much of what is out there on the aftermarket is unnecessary junk, but a small percentage of it will truly improve the functionality of the AK. I am going to spend some time over the next few days discussing ways to make your AK more functional and efficient. I’ll start at the muzzle and work my way back to the buttstock.

AK users will have the choice of 3 basic types of muzzle devices – compensators, flash suppressors, and combination devices that do a little of both. It is important to understand the role, benefits, and drawbacks of each type before choosing one.

Manticore Arm Nightshroud MKII (installed) shown in comparison with an AK-74 brake

Compensators and Brakes

A compensator or muzzle brake redirects the gasses that escape the barrel as the bullet passes out of the muzzle to counteract muzzle rise. Many AKs will come standard with some form of a compensator like the relatively ineffective slant brake or the very effective AK-74 style brake.

A good compensator can aid someone who already has good technique in keeping the muzzle as level as possible. This leads to faster follow-up shots by minimizing muzzle rise which speeds sight acquisition. This can be a very good thing. However, this performance comes at a price.

By redirecting the combustion gasses, you are also redirecting the concussive blast and sound. Compensators are usually louder to the shooter and those around the shooter. When a compensator is used in confined spaces like a hallway, car or indoor range, the sound can quickly overwhelm your hearing protection and be quite painful and disruptive. Image what it can do if you are not wearing hearing protection.

The concussive blast can really wreak havoc. I have seen rifles with compensators, shot from a position that places the muzzle near the ground, spray a shower of gravel into the air around the shooter. I have seen them tear large gashes into heavy nylon bags that were being used as improvised rests. Shooting next to someone who is running a compensator can range from a mild annoyance to a very disorienting experience.

Compensators effects on flash can vary greatly. Some compensators can tame flash slightly, while others seem to increase it. This can be an issue with poor quality ammo (which can probably be said of most of what is on the market) that tends to create a significant fireball and a lot of spark.

If you decide to go with a compensator or brake after weighing all of these factors, you have several good choices. The previously mentioned AK-74 style brake can be an excellent and relatively inexpensive choice. They may even come standard on several rifles like the excellent Arsenal SGL-21 series. The J-Tac47 from PWS also works very well. I have found that this compensator is relatively quiet to the shooter which is a positive.

Flash Suppressors

Flash suppressors are designed to reduce muzzle flash (the burning gasses that exit the muzzle after the bullet). This serves two purposes. It reduces the chances that the shooter will loose their dark adjusted vision as a result of the muzzle flash, and it can conceal the position of a shooter in the dark.

Flash suppressors tend to be relatively quiet compared to a compensator. A flash suppressor also does not suffer from the same concussive blast issues. However, they offer no additional measure of control (beyond your technique) to the muzzle.

Flash suppressors are excellent all-around muzzle devices. They lack the significant downsides of a compensator (they lack the upside, too). Most shooters would likely be better served with a flash suppressor than a compensator.

Many AK accessory dealers sell inexpensive A1 and A2 style flash suppressors that work fairly well. YHM sells a couple AK flash suppressors in the Phantom series that work very well. The Smith Enterprise Vortex for the AK is extremely effective at suppressing flash. If the muzzle of your AK has 24mm threads, you will find that your choices are extremely limited. The best flash suppressor that I have found for 24mm thread is the excellent Manticore Arms Nightshroud.


Combination Devices

This category really only consists of one muzzle device that I know of. The PWS FSC47 is a very effective compensator and a fairly effective flash suppressor.

It does an excellent job of keeping the muzzle level when combined with strong technique. While the FSC47 does have many of the same downsides of a compensator, it seems to have them to a lesser extent. The concussive blast is not as harsh and it is not very loud at the shooter’s position. It suppresses flash as well as most AK flash suppressors. The FSC47 really does have an impressive combination of features.

It still is not pleasant to stand next to the FSC47, and there is definitely still a more concussive blast than a flash suppressor would generate. Many of the same cautions about compensators apply to the FSC47.


Compensators and flash suppressors both have strengths and weaknesses. Make sure you understand both before you lay down your hard earned cash.

Powered by WordPress. Designed by Woo Themes

%d bloggers like this: